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From the Brick Spoon

by Euriol of Lothian

This recipe I entered into the most recent Wooden Spoon Competition at Purgatorio, the category was Candied Fruit. Some may question why in a competition for Candied Fruits I would submit Candied Walnuts. In my research I discovered that nuts where categorized with other fruits. Now the walnut is indeed is a part of the fruit produced by the Walnut tree. In Anthismus' On the Observance of Foods he discusses various fruits. "I shall now consider fruits. Quinces are good ... Sweet apples that have been properly ripened ... Also suitable are sweet plums when well ripened ... Blackberries and mulberries ... Fresh figs are good ... Chestnuts are suitable when boiled well or roasted ... Hazelnuts are troublesome ... Almonds are good ... Pistachio nuts are good ... Dates are good too ... Dried Figs are good and suitable ... Raisins ... " As can be seen, nuts were categorized with other known fruits. On the Observance of Foods was a letter that was written to by Anthismus to Theuderic, king of the Franks. Anthimus was the ambassador and representative of Theodoric, the Ostrogothic King in Italy. This dates this letter in the early to mid 6th century. As to the success of submitting this entry into the the competition? A third wooden spoon I was granted.

Nucato
(From Libro della cucina del secolo XIV, 14th Century Italian)

Original:

Dele mele bullito co le noci, detto nucato. Togli mele bullito e schlumato, con le noci unpoco peste e spezie cottte insieme: bagnati la palma de la mano coll'acqu et estendilo: lassa freddare a dil a mangiare. E puoi ponere mandole e avellane in luogo di noci .

Translation:

Of honey boiled with walnuts, known as nucato. Take honey, boiled and skimmed, with slightly crushed walnuts and spices, boiled together: wet the palm of your hand with water and spread it out; let it cool, and serve. And you can use almonds of filberts in place of walnuts.

Placed honey in pot and heat until honey reaches a hard crack stage (Use a candy thermometer). Add spices and walnuts. Spoon out onto parchment to cool and harden.

Note: I found it easier to add the spice and especially the nuts after the honey reached the hard crack stage, thus avoiding scorching the nuts.

Sources

On The Observance of Foods (De obseruatione ciborum), Anthimus, translated and edited by Mark Grant, Prospect Books, 1996

The Medieval Kitchen Recipes from France and Italy, Odile Redan, Francoise Sabban & Silvana Serventi, Translate by Edward Schneider, The University of Chicago Press, 1998

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