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Goutte Housekeeping
a column on medieval cookery
A White Leek Sauce
Wulfric of Creigull
One of the simplest ways to prepare meat is to roast it. Often
medieval cooks would present a sauce on or beside the meat, for variety
and color's sake. In the SCA, making a sauce to present with the
dish is an easy way to serve a roast in a period style.
The author of this recipe is Master Chiquart, a 15th century French
cook. Besides his recipes, he is known for never using a sentence
when a paragraph will do.
A White Leek Sauce
To make the White Leek Sauce, have him who is charged with them get
his leeks and chop them small, wash them well and put them to broil.
then have him get a good chunk of salt pork back, clean it very well
and put it with them to boil; and when they have boiled at length, take
them out and put them on clean wooden tables, and keep the bouillon
in which they have boiled. There should be a good mortarful of
white almonds; take the bouillon in which the leeks have boiled and
draw out your almonds in it, and if there is not enough of that bouillon,
get beef or mutton bouillon, and watch that it is not too salty.
After that set your broth to boil in a good clean kettle. Then
take two good clean knives and chop up your leeks, then take and grind
them in the mortar; once they are ground, put them into your broth,
made of equal quantities of almonds and water, half boiled. After
they have boiled, when they get to the dressing table, place your meat
in good dishes and then pour some of that leek broth over top. (On
Cookery, 1420)
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1/2 lb. leek whites
2 ounces salt pork |
1 cup water
1/2 cup blanched almonds |
Wash leeks thoroughly. Mince leeks and salt port. Bring
pork to a boil in water and simmer for 20 minutes. Add leeks and
boil another 5 minutes. Drain, reserving fluid. Grind almonds,
adding leek water as needed to keep from sticking. Add leeks and
pork and grind until smooth. Bring 1/3cup leek water to a boil
and mix in leek/almond mixture. Stir and simmer five minutes.
Serve hot over a roast.
Makes enough for a 3-4 pound roast. Beef is fine; pork loin is
very good.
I boiled the pork first for health reasons. Since the almonds
should be ground anyway, I ground them with the leeks for simplicity.
Sources
Scully, Terence, ed. Chiquart's 'On Cookery'. Peter Lang,
1986.
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